DAVID GODFREY'S MANUAL CLUTCH ADJUSTERDavid Godfrey is somewhat of a legend in the XR4Ti circles. He was one of the first to figure out a bigger front disc brake option using off the shelf discs, as well as a rear disc brake conversion. The clutch adjuster is one of his creations that is still highly desired. This helps preserve the plastic quadrant the clutch cable rides which is prone to break, given the repeated tension the piece is under while being actuated dozens of times every time the car is driven.
A few years ago I conducted a survey on the IMON list of clutch quadrant failures. Of the 30 something reply's I got only one person had a failure of the cable cam. All other failures were either the ratchet teeth or the spring. The pedal mounted adjuster can use the cable cam even if it is stripped.
CNC machined aluminum Clutch Pivot assembly
With the above done the pedal assembly is ready to unbolt and remove. There are two 17mm nuts where the pedal bracket meets the firewall. You will have to pull the carpet back to see them. Remove the nuts and flat washers. There is a 12mm-headed bolt going up from the pedal bracket to the dash support structure. Remove this bolt and the pedal assembly can be removed. With the clutch pedal assembly out make sure the nylon bushing on the end of the brake rod does not fall off and get lost.
STOCK PEDAL ASSEMBLY
CLUTCH PEDAL, GUIDE TUBE, CLIP
PARTS REMOVED FROM CLUTCH PEDAL
Using a hacksaw, sharp knife, or side cutters, remove the tab from the end on the cam as shown in the picture. Make sure the tab is completely removed and flush with the flat surface.
STOCK CABLE CAM
MODIFIED CABLE CAM
Place the clutch pivot on the cam and press the pre-installed roll pin in place. The cam is now ready for installation. The roll pin can easily be pressed into place using a bench vise or channel lock type pliers.
CAM WITH CLUTCH PIVOT INSTALLED
The pedal needs to be modified so the adjustment rod can be installed. There is a small slot on the front of the pedal near the pivot. Drill the slot out with a 1/2" drill. It was easier to drill the hole if the slot is made somewhat round by using a rat-tail file. When the drill is through the pedal rotate it slightly up to elongate the hole. Remove any burrs with a round file. The spacer needs to fit in the hole and be able to rock up slightly.
SLOT IN CLUTCH PEDAL
DRILL OUT SLOT TO 1/2"
ROTATE DRILL UP AS SHOWN
Place the adjustment rod through the spacer and then through the hole in the pedal. Thread the pedal trunion on the adjustment rod with the flat side of the trunion facing away from the pedal.
ADJUSTMENT ROD, LOCK NUT, SPACER, & PEDAL TRUNION INSTALLED
Place the pivot trunion in the clutch pivot. Place the cam in place on the pedal and turn the adjustment screw in until the end engages the pivot trunion. Snug up the set screw using a 1/16" Allen wrench to engage the groove in the end of the adjuster. The set screw does not need to be tightened down on the adjuster, but just engage the slot to keep the adjustment rod captive to pivot trunion.
MODIFIED CAM & ADJUSTER INSTALLED
PEDAL RE-INSTALLED ON BRACKET
Place the pedal assy on the shaft and install the guide tube and the big hairpin clip making sure the clip is fully seated in the groove on the shaft. The shaft is spring loaded so it can be pressed out to make putting the clip in place easier. Install the clip before tightening the nuts on the cable guide tube. Turn the adjustment screw rotating the cam to the forward position.
And now, the most famous instruction, "installation is the reversal of removal."
With the cam rotated all the way forward (adjuster rod fully extended from the pedal) place the clutch cable through the guide tube and hook the end over the cable cam. Turn the adjuster screw to tighten the cable and set the release point. When satisfied with the adjustment tighten down the lock nut making sure the spacer is properly engaged in the pedal trunion. Install the lower dash and other parts. Once installed the clutch adjuster can easily be reached from the foot well area.